John Gunn and Ian Fairchild, School of Geography Earth & Environmental Sciences, University of Birmingham, Birmingham B15 2TT, UK

In common with virtually all limestone caves Poole’s Cavern has an environmental history that spans millions, of years. The Carboniferous Limestone’s in which the cave is formed are about 345 million years old and water began to circulate slowly through them when they were still covered by many metres of sandstones and mudstones, the rocks commonly referred to as the Millstone Grit. The water dissolved away the limestone, following preferred flow routes (‘inception horizons’) and forming small channels. As the overlying rocks were removed by erosion more water was able to flow underground enlarging the conduits through which the water was flowing. Poole’s Cavern grew from a conduit that formed on inception horizons above an important volcanic layer, the Lower Millers Dale Limestone. During one or more of the cold periods that are commonly called ‘Ice Ages’ large amounts of melt-water flowed through Poole’s Cavern from sinks the location of which has now been lost to a resurgence that has also been removed by subsequent erosion. At the same time as this was happening new conduits fed by new stream-sinks on Stanley Moor were developing along inception horizons below the lava and discharging at the Wye Head and Otter Hole springs. These captured water from the older conduits and now the Poole’s Cavern stream only flows following wet weather. However, even when the stream is dry the cavern receives inputs of water that have infiltrated through soils and percolated through the rocks. It is these waters that form the flowstones, stalactites and stalagmites which are collectively referred to by scientists as speleothems and which provide information on past environments.

When studying archives of the past such as ice cores, marine sediments, or cave deposits, we seek to interpret the past using various characteristics that stand for, or act as proxies for the original environmental or climatic conditions. The past two decades have seen major developments in our understanding of a variety of proxies found in terrestrial archives. A particularly radical advance has happened in the study of speleothems. Researchers have used many different approaches including chemical analyses of the speleothems, working out how fast they grew, making theoretical models of processes in the cave and the overlying soils, carrying out laboratory experiments and monitoring processes in modern caves. One of the speakers, Ian Fairchild published the first textbook on this subject in 2012 with his former Birmingham colleague Andy Baker.

Poole’s Cavern is a special place for a number of reasons including its archaeology, but also because it is located under historic lime workings. The water passing through the ground becomes highly alkaline and this results in some very unusual speleothems. Usually when a stalactite or stalagmite forms, the chemical process is one of carbon dioxide emerging from the drip water but in very alkaline water the opposite happens, the stalagmite growth depending on carbon dioxide dissolving in the cave water. Under alkaline conditions growth is around ten times quicker than normal and the beautiful tall stalagmites of the Poached Egg Chamber, growing at several millimetres per year, have been created since this industrial pollution. For similar reasons calcareous precipitates have filled the bottom of the valley at Brook Bottom on the outskirts of Buxton.

We have used Poole's Cavern as a training ground for undergraduates doing their first research projects as well as for more sustained graduate research. We now know much more about matters such as the pattern of air circulation in the cave and its effects on radon and carbon dioxide levels and its control on the rates of stalagmite growth. Specific effects related to undiscovered cave passages beyond the end of the cave can be felt. Although some information on past rainfall has been deduced from study of the stalagmites, their main intrinsic scientific interest is to study chemical processes under alkaline (high pH) conditions including transport of trace metals and changes in abundance of natural isotopes. The cave maintains very consistent conditions of temperature, humidity and rate of dripping water which would be very difficult to achieve in the built environment. For such reasons, Poole’s Cavern has proved to be a marvellous natural laboratory.

Buxton made the Sunday Times top 101 places to live for the second year running in the list published in the national paper on Sunday. While last year saw Stamford emerge as the overall winner, this year it was Skipton for its "Big hearted, buzzy life in a small town". Only the top four were ranked with Newnham in Cambridgeshire coming second followed by Monmouth and Falmouth but Buxton was one of ten towns selected in the Midlands.

The aim of the survey was to celebrate real towns for real people. A lot of weight was given to hard facts, such as crime statistics, house prices, and educational performance. But consideration was also given to the expertise of Sunday Times reporters, local bloggers, as well as readers of the paper who tweeted their thoughts and views.

They liked Buxton, because; “It does its own thing, and it does it rather well.” They were particularly impressed by the exceptional community spirit and with the number of volunteers that support a whole range of arts and cultural activities. So what is special about Buxton? Let us know your favourite reason for living in Buxton and we will compile a top ten list of reasons by the end of April.

Mike Monaghan, Director with responsibilities for the Civic Association's environmental policy was interviewed on High Peak Radio recently, on the High Peak View Point slot. Mike was talking about the work that the Buxton Civic Association does and the Peak District Environmental Quality Mark. High Peak Radio have very kindly allowed us to make a recording of the interview available on our website. So please click on the link above to enjoy the full interview.

Grin Low (now Buxton Country Park)

Extensive woodland to enjoy including SSSI flower glades, former kiln sites and various routes up to access landmark Solomon’s Temple. For the brave, team-building or just family fun there is Go-Ape tree-top adventure.

Corbar

Buxton’s oldest woodland and the popular Victorian Swiss Walks. This wood features a level path at the bottom of the wood so access is possible for wheelchairs to this area of the wood. A hillside route up to Corbar Cross and fabulous views over the town. Hosts show of beautiful bluebells in springtime.

Gadley

Features: stream and stepping stones, pond, ford former brickyard. Adjacent to the Cavendish golf course.

Sherbrook

A small wooded area adjacent to the lower end of Harpur Hill Road. Note only the northern part of wood is owned by BCA, the southern portion belongs to DCC. Access to the wood is via: a gate at the bottom of Harpur Hill road, a footpath off Trent Avenue next to Harpur Hill School, or from Fern Way.

The main feature of the Wood is stream, though usually dry in the summer months and a wooden bridge over the stream. There is also a small old quarry on the east side of the wood and a badger sett.

Hogshaw Woods

Small haven in residential area, access from 3 corners.

Shay Lodge Plantation

A tiny wood surrounded by farmland accessible only by footpath either from Burbage or through Plex Farm off Bishop’s Lane.

Ashwood Dale

Deep steep sided limestone tree lined gorge, with a river running through.

Access from the sharp bend on Dukes drive, short path to cliff edge to view of Lovers Leap on the opposite side of the gorge.
View of the A6, river Wye and railway goods line.

Keep away from the cliff edges please.

The flora and fauna of Corbar cannot compete with the rich variety you can find in Grin Low Wood, especially the limestone loving flowers in the glades there: Corbar is no SSSI, but it has its own beauties. In May the bluebells in the far western part of the wood are a sight to behold, and the eroded old quarries below them provide dramatic contours – and challenges to local children to scramble up or slide down. There are some splendid veteran beeches, ancient yews and a few gnarled oaks. If you haven’t explored Corbar Wood yet, do spare a few hours to get to know it: you will find it very rewarding and good for your health. Recent research has shown that regular walking through woodland reduces stress chemicals in the body and increases cells in the immune system that fight viruses and tumours.

Look at any 19th century print of the Crescent, such as the fine display in No. 6 Café or those frequently shown in the Art Gallery, and you will see a massively enlarged Corbar Hill in the background covered on its western side with trees. Corbar Wood, 54 acres – just over half the area of Grin Low Wood, is our only semi-natural ancient woodland, possessing some of the signs of very old woodland: a magnificent area of bluebells which grow best in woodland and take centuries to spread; a vestigial and possibly mediaeval boundary ditch to protect the valuable coppiced trees; and the remains of a white coal pit, dug to provide super-dried coppice branches which could create the higher temperatures than charcoal which were needed for smelting lead.

Victorian Period

In the early Victorian period when Buxton was being developed by the 6th Duke of Devonshire as a spa resort for the increasingly prosperous and numerous middle classes, Corbar Wood was developed as a visitor attraction by laying out broad walks, rustic bridges, seats, shelters, and viewpoints, probably supervised by Sir Joseph Paxton, the Duke’s head gardener, engineer and architect. Nothing remains of the pretty rustic bridges and summer houses, and to get the views you have to walk higher up to Corbar Cross, erected by Buxton Catholics in 1950 to mark the Jubilee Year. Considering the popularity of the ‘Swiss Walks’ and the Victorian fascination with the developing art of photography, remarkably few photographs of the Corbar Walks, bridges and arbours survive among the large collection of historic photographs in the Buxton Art Gallery and Museum.

The layout of the Victorian walks survives but over many decades their surfaces have been badly eroded and there is poor natural drainage as the rock beneath is impermeable gritstone. The annual autumnal leaf litter has built up and after rain and snow creates a potentially hazardous quagmire which walkers naturally avoid and so broaden the paths and extend the slippery areas. Over the last few years BCA has made a determined effort, mainly by Mike Monaghan and Alan Walker, and with valuable advice from Phil Beh-Mycock, to rebuild the surfaces of at least the public rights of way (also on the ‘Ring of Trees’ guided walk), applying to local quarries (Tarmac, Lhoist and Omya) for many tons of aggregate and to High Peak Borough Council for grants to employ a skilled professional path builder, Martin Wragg (Oak Tree Landscapes). After a few seasons the surface of the paths blends in with the woodland floor and has certainly made walking through this beautiful wood a much more agreeable experience. Some repaired paths are now even accessible to wheelchair users and buggies. We are very grateful to all who have made these improvements possible and we hope to repair the very slippery paths around the western perimeter and the top when we can solve the logistic problem of getting about 100 tons of stone up quite a steep hill.

Freezing Temperatures Frosts and Snow

Poole’s Cavern is doing well despite these difficult times. On the back of the Jubilee and the Olympics when the whole world seemed focused on Britain, the question was this year what could we do to top that. Well we started off with a dreadful spring; remember the cold Easter with the car park under three feet of snow?

But … it’s been a really good year with lots of school visits and high visitor numbers. Caves have been promoted nationally through the Cool Caves hash tag with the English Tourist Board. The idea was to chill out in blistering heat – remember those days?

We now have planning consent for the toilet for the disabled which will include a baby change facility. This new toilet block is for use when the Visitor Centre is closed.

We must send out a huge thank you to all the cavern staff . Five star Recommendations have been scored on Trip Advisor and that’s because we have a great cave and friendly staff .

Download the full BCA newsletter Issue 25 Autumn 2013

Fresh air without getting soaked

As the old Buxton Water Plant is being removed due to concerns over vandalism it
is important to keep a close eye on the press. The photograph, taken from Holker Road, reveals what effect such a large and prominent site has on our town.

Nestle has assured the Council that there is ‘going to be more flexibility in relation to the land.’ (Buxton Advertiser 31/01/13). The consultation period ended in April and the formal representations are now due so we must check www.highpeak.gov.uk to see updates on preferred options.

Old photographs of Buxton with its beautiful canopies show what a practical solution the Victorians had to our special climate. They enjoyed healthy fresh air, without the inconvenience of being soaked through between visits to independent and individual shops. What a wonderful idea for the future.

The  botanically  important  glade areas in  Grin  Low woods will receive theire annual autumn cut this month and I am often asked why we do  this  to what  seems a wild area of natural grassland. The  woodland  glade  areas  are  associated  with  the  17th  and  18th  century  lime  burning industry. Waste Limestone ash was tipped  below  each  kiln  and the highly contaminated and alkaline ground wasn't planted with trees. 

Slowly the areas were colonised by lime loving species of herbaceous plants and grasses such as Northern Marsh Orchid, Burnet Everlasting, Creeping willow and Juniper. Unlike the neighbouring farmland, this unique habitat wasn’t grazed or fertilized by animal livestock

Recognising the Juniper as the only surviving example in Derbyshire, the area of Grin Low was designated as a site of Special Nature Conservancy Council (now Natural England). It was re­-designated in 1981 under the Wildlife and Countryside Act.

Over 15 years ago it was recognised that these valuable areas could be lost without careful management, encroached by rank species of grasses and invasive trees such as Birch and Ash. At the time rabbits grazed the glades but with outbreaks of Myxomatosis an artificial solution became necessary. Since then the glades have been cut annually, a project originally funded by Natural England. The cuttings are raked Since then the glades have been cut annually, a project originally funded by Natural England.

The cuttings are raked and removed from the glade to prevent the thin soil layer from becoming too enriched and able to support invasive species. In this highly labour intensive time our woodland volunteers are invaluable, assisting with grass clearing and cutting back saplings on the glade edges.

We have now brought eight or so glades back to a good condition ­ around seven acres of the 100 acres of Grin Low Wood ­ and 100 acres of Grin Low Wood ­ and hope to enlarge some of these areas further. Funding is currently unavailable for this project, which makes volunteer help even more important. If anyone has a few hours to spare in September and October please contact Alan at Poole’s Cavern Visitor Centre on 01298 26978.